When Matt and I got married, the talk inevitably fell at one point to the honeymoon. Where would we go? What would we do? “Europe!” I said, emphatically. “I’ve always wanted to go to Europe!” and thankfully, I had a future husband who whole-heartedly agreed with me.
Two weeks. We planned two weeks. But where? So many options! London. Of course, London. Both of us had it at the top of the list! I suggested Hungary. Budapest. Where my great-grandparents came from. Bonus, because it was a cheap destination with a lot to do!
Oh! How about Prague! I was, at the time, looking to add a little excitement to my life and considered teaching English abroad through a program in Prague. Wouldn’t it be nice to see if we’d even like Prague before we did. Cool. That’s decided.
I noticed, then, that there was a few days between when we planned to be in Prague to when we’d be in Budapest. Looking at the map to see if we could add another city to our two-week itinerary, I saw three options. Vienna, Austria…Bratislava, Slovakia…and Krakow, Poland.
Vienna had the most to do, but was quite expensive – both for accommodations (even in the hostels we planned on using) and sight-seeing. Bratislava was cheap, but there wasn’t as much to do. Krakow won.
Now, here’s the thing that appealed to me about Krakow, though using the word ‘appealed’ makes me uncomfortable. At the time, I had read through a lot of Holocaust history and watched many documentaries on it. I had just finished the Diary of Anne Frank. I knew the concentration camp, Auschwitz, was near Krakow and you could easily buy tickets and transportation from Krakow to the camp and go on a guided tour.
Yes, Matt and I went to a concentration camp on our honeymoon.
That may sound morbid and very non-honeymoony. I agree, it is. However, my logic was as follows: we were in that part of the world already, Matt and I were both interested in it, and who knew if we’d ever be in this area again in the future.
Early that morning, we embarked from our nice hostel into the rainy, wet, and chilly March morning to walk to the meeting point for the bus. We boarded and were met by the driver, who told us the drive would be approximately forty-five minutes to an hour, and he had a small video to show us about the liberation of the camp.
The video played, in English, and the black and white images provided us the story of the Russian Red Army discovering the remaining prisoners of the camp. The other, healthier (and healthier in Auschwitz terms meant they could still walk) prisoners had already been force-marched away from the camps by the escaping SS guards. Watching that was hard enough.
The bus took us first to the second camp, Auschwitz II-Birkenau, where we met our guide for the day, Michal. Michal was a serious and earnest young man, a college student at the time, who volunteered as an Auschwitz museum guide. He was knowledgeable, well-spoken, and an excellent guide.
Auschwitz Birkenau was built to hold more prisoners and make the killing and burning of Jews and other prisoners more efficient. The gas chambers and crematoria at the original camp, Auschwitz I, didn’t kill and dispose at a fast enough rate for the Nazis.
There is not much left at Auschwitz II. The Nazis did their best to destroy the evidence before they fled, blowing up the gas chambers and crematoria before escaping. Enough is left there, however, and the sorrow hangs heavy on this camp. We saw replications of the bunks that housed Jews and other prisoners, their so-called toilets and beds. Heard their stories from Michal. It was horrifying.
Yet even here, with the weight of what happened over you like a wet blanket, there was still a slight disconnect. You saw the place. You felt the place. It just didn’t seem like it. Yes, there was the train tracks leading in. There was the train platform where the SS pointed you left or right. There was the concrete hole used as a toilet twice a day only.
It just didn’t seem. Real.
Then we went to Auschwitz I.
The original camp is what everyone thinks of first when thinking about the concentration camp. The infamous sign hanging over it “Arbeit Macht Frei” – “Work sets you free”. Michal pointed out to us the upside down “B” in ‘Arbeit’ – believed to be an act of rebelliousness from a Jew who did it on purpose.
Auschwitz I is misleading. At first glance, it looks like a town or a cluster of buildings that one might see on a college campus. Possibly a row of dorms. The buildings are mostly similar, square and made of brick. There are sidewalks and inviting steps leading up the doors. If it wasn’t for the barbed wire and electric fences – and the utter weight of emotion descending on you – you might not know at first glance what this place was.
Michal led us on the tour, earnestly explaining things to us. Many of the buildings which housed prisoners, or the experiments of the notorious Dr. Mengele, are converted to museum exhibits. When the Nazis ran from the camps as the Red Army bore down on them, they didn’t have time to destroy all evidence of their crimes. Many things were left behind and exhibited in the museum to draw attention to the scale of the genocide.
Thousands of suitcases, piles of clothes, shoes, prosthesis, glasses, children’s shoes (that was hard to see) and every other little thing the Nazis took from the prisoners shoved through that gate. Each exhibit was worse than the last.
Then we saw the hair.
Two tons of human hair. Two tons.
Think about that for just one moment. How much does your hair weigh? Not much right? Think about how much hair has to be in one place to weigh two tons. A small fraction of the hair shaved from prisoner’s heads was left behind. The museum unbaled the hair and put it in an air-tight display room. Some even still in braids.
It’s heart-breaking.
The exhibits were bad enough. Then Michal took us to the wall. The execution wall, where prisoners were lined up and shot. The thousands of bullet holes that riddled the wall are still there, a background for the hundreds of prayer stones left every day at the site. The windows of the two buildings on each side of the alley are blocked, so prisoners in there wouldn’t see the executions and panic. They could, however, hear the gunfire.
The worst was the gas chamber and crematoria. Those were destroyed at Birkenau, but left intact at Auschwitz I. We were not allowed to take pictures inside, of which I’m glad. It wouldn’t have occurred to me.
We walked into the gas chamber, a dark and large space, complete with fake shower heads. We were shown where the gas would drop in, as well as old, used cans. When the gas dropped, the youngest and oldest would die quickly, but the others took longer and would know what was happening as they suffocated. There are still fingernail marks on the walls from victims desperately trying to escape.
Then we were taken from there into the crematoria and shown how small the ovens were there – hence the building of a more efficient system at Birkenau.
When we left the camp and got onto the bus to go back to Krakow, I was numb. No one on the bus spoke a word the entire hour back. I have never been on a full bus where the silence is that oppressive. We were all lost in our own thoughts. I say thoughts, but I had none. I had trouble processing what I’d just seen.
I’d read the books. Seen the documentaries. It didn’t hit home until I was there, because I can’t stress this enough. You feel it. The pain, terror, sadness, hate, despair – it hangs in the air. It presses down on your head and squeezes the air out of your lungs. It is truly a horrifying experience to feel that much.
It’s nothing you can prepare for, and while I say it’s one of the worst experiences I’ve ever had, it’s also one of the best. I can’t explain what I mean by that, but it’s something I think every single person on this earth should experience. Because this can (and has) happened again since then.
I kept a journal during our honeymoon and, until that day, it was full of bright descriptions of our adventures. I was so excited to be in Europe and explore the places I’d been wanting to see my whole life. Pages and pages were loaded with stories.
And then came the day of our Auschwitz visit.
Six words. “We went to Auschwitz. I can’t.”
That’s it. Everything I described above is from my memory. I don’t have a written record of it. I’ve never forgotten it though.
We sat in our hostel that evening, not hungry and not motivated to do anything. We barely spoke, and I think that we were both just so drained. It was, of course, a sobering experience, and we both had trouble processing it. I didn’t know what to do.
“Let’s go to the mall,” I suggested.
I expected, and got, the strange look from Matt.
“The mall?”
So we went. Across the street from our hostel was a modern mall. When we first arrived in Krakow, the train station sat near a mall, which sat near our hostel. I had mentioned that I’d love to see what a Polish mall was like. I don’t know why, but it sounded like a good idea after the trip to Auschwitz.
I think sub-consciously I knew this was the perfect antidote. This bright, shiny, loud, crowded mall helped. I’m not a ‘mall’ person, but it helped to see young kids laughing and hanging out with their friends. Old people walking hand in hand. Little kids running around with their frazzled parents trying to keep up. Other than the Polish words on the signs, it was like any typical mall here in the United States.
It helped.
Life went on. Life goes on.
One hour’s drive from one of the most deadliest places in history. A place that continuously weeps from the horror of what it has seen. We ate ice cream and watched people living their lives and it helped.
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Today is the 75th anniversary of the liberation of the Auschwitz Concentration Camp – and also Holocaust Remembrance Day. Consider visiting Auschwitz if you ever can. If not, follow @AuschwitzMuseum on Twitter. It’s necessary.